Revised January, 1993
INTRODUCTION
Many homeowners do
not realize that once the lawn has been established there are regular
management practices that must be followed to insure lawn quality.
This mimeo is intended to provide a quick reference to general lawn
management principals. In addition to basic guidelines, the mimeo is
designed as a reference source for more detailed information on
specific c subjects. By adhering to the simple procedures outlined
here-in many potential problems can be averted. It is instructive to
begin by listing the reasons for a poor lawn. The most common causes
are as follows:
1. Poorly adapted species or cultivar(s) were planted
2. Uncertified seed or sod was used
3. Mowing the lawn too closely or too infrequently
4. Improper use of fertilizers and limestone
5. Poor weed control practices
6. Poor watering practices
7. Shade, or poorly drained soils
8. Too much traffic or compaction of soil
9. Failure to annually replant areas damaged by diseases, insects or environmental stress
TURFGRASS
SPECIES AND CULTIVARS
Information
regarding the proper species and cultivars for Maryland lawns is
provided in Agronomy Mimeo 77, "Turfgrass Cultivar Recommendations
For Maryland." In general, tall fescue is the lawn grass best adapted
for use from Baltimore to Washington, D.C. and southern counties as
well as the Eastern Shore. Kentucky bluegrass provides the most
aesthetically pleasing lawn turf, but it requires a higher level of
maintenance than tall fescue. Perennial ryegrass cultivars have been
greatly improved in recent years, but this species is not recommended
for use on lawns due to its susceptibility to many diseases.
Zoysiagrass is perhaps our best low maintenance grass for lawns, but
is slow and expensive to establish (see Agronomy 69, "Planting and
Care of a Zoysiagrass Lawn").
MOWING
Low and infrequent
mowing is perhaps the major cause of lawn deterioration. When mowing,
never remove more than one-third of the leaf surface at any one time.
For example, if the desired mowing height is 2. 0 inches, do not
allow the turf to grow higher than 3.0 inches before mowing. It is
best to maintain the mowing heights shown for spring and fall year
round; however, height of cut can be reduced during fall and winter.
Mow as needed and return clippings to the lawn. The proper mowing
height for lawn grasses is as follows:
Spring and Summer
Fall and Winter
Kentucky bluegrass
2.5 - 3.0 inches
2.0 inches
Perennial ryegrass
2.5 - 3.0 inches
2.0 inches
Tall fescue
2.5 - 3.5 inches
2.5 inches
Creeping red fescue
2.5 - 3.5 inches
2.5 inches
Zoysiagrass
0.5 - 1.0 inches
0.5 - 1.5 inches
FERTILIZER AND
LIMESTONE
Lawn grasses, other than zoysiagrass, should be fertilized 2 to 3
times during autumn months with nitrogen. Zoysiagrass should be
fertilized in late May or June. Between 75 and 100% of fertilizer
applied annually should be applied between September and December for
Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, perennial ryegrass and creeping red
fescue. Slow release nitrogen (N) fertilizers such as sulfur coated
urea, methylene urea or animal waste products are preferred. Water
soluble materials such as urea and ammonium nitrate are good
performers and less expensive, but they acidify soil more rapidly and
provide a shorter-lived greening response. Established turfgrasses
have relatively low requirements for phosphorus and potassium
(potash) fertilizers. Apply 1.0 to 2.0 lb/1000 ft2 of phosphate (P2O5) and potash
(K20)annually for most grasses. Complete fertilizers are
identified on the bag by three numbers (e.g., 10-10-10), which
correspond to a percent by weight of N + P2O5 +
K20 contained in the bag. There is considerable
flexibility in using fertilizer in the fall. Below, a good general
schedule for nitrogen use is shown.
|
Pounds of nitrogen fertilizer per 1000ft2 by month |
Nitrogen/1000ft2 |
|
|
September |
October |
November |
Mid-May |
June |
Annual Total |
|
Kentucky bluegrass |
1.0 |
1.0 |
1.0 |
1.0* |
0 |
3.0-4.0 |
|
Perennial ryegrass |
1.0 |
1.0 |
1.0 |
1.0* |
0 |
3.0-4.0 |
|
Tall fescue |
1.0 |
1.0 |
0 |
1.0* |
0 |
2.0-3.0 |
|
Creeping red fescue |
0 |
1.0 |
0 |
1.0* |
0 |
1.0-2.0 |
|
Zoysiagrass |
0 |
0 |
0 |
1.0 |
1.0* |
1.0-2.0 |
|
|
|
Limestone should be applied when soil testing (performed by the University of Maryland and obtained through the county extension office) reveals soil pH = 6.0 or lower. For most situations, apply 50 lbs/1000 ft2 of limestone in the fall or winter. Limestone works very slowly and it may take over a year for soil pH to rise substantially. |
WATERING
The best time to water the lawn is
during early morning hours on an as needed basis rather than on a
fixed schedule. Water is most effectively applied when turf develops
a blue-gray or purplish color and/or when turf lays-down leaving a
footprint after being walked upon. When watering, it is very
important to water slowly and to wet the soil to a depth of 4 to 6
inches. This can be a laborious process, but will yield long-term
benefits in water conservation. Light frequent applications of water
are detrimental and can result in restricted rooting and increases in
disease and weed problems. For more information on watering consult
Agronomy Mimeo 88, "Irrigation and Water
Conservation on Homelawns."
WEED CONTROL
The best approach to weed control is
maintaining a thick, dense lawn through proper mowing, fertilizing
and watering. Despite adherence to sound cultural practices, weeds
often become a problem. Crabgrass and various broadleaf weeds are the
most troublesome. Crabgrass is best controlled with an application of
a preemergent herbicide (see Agronomy Mimeo 85, "Herbicides
For Crabgrass and Goosegrass Control in Turf") before seed germinate in spring. For Central and
Southern Maryland, these herbicides should be applied between March
15 and April 1, and for Northern and Western Maryland they should be
applied between April 1 and April 15. Herbicides for broadleaf weed
control (see Agronomy Mimeo 79, "Broadleaf
Weed Control in Established Lawns")
are most effective if applied in early May or mid-September when
weeds are growing vigorously. Avoid using dicamba if trees, shrubs
and ornamentals are near lawn areas. Read product labels very
carefully for proper use of all pesticides.
DISEASE AND INSECT
PESTS
There are numerous guides available to assist homeowners with
identifying diseases and insect pests of turfgrasses. In many
situations, however, it is best to take samples of injured turf to
your county agent for a more precise diagnosis. The cooperative
extension service can then provide you with the most prudent means of
dealing with pests.
Prepared by: Peter H. Dernoeden, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, Department of Agronomy