Agronomy Mimeo 91Revised January, 1997

INTRODUCTION

While zoysiagrass is potentially the best suited grass for most low maintenance situations in Maryland, this species is slow and expensive to establish. Among cool-season grasses, fescue species are the most promising grasses for use as low maintenance turfs. Tall fescue is among the more desirable grasses for Maryland lawns. The new turf-type tall fescue cultivars are darker green, finer textured and exhibit improved persistence under low mowing. Compared to Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue requires less water, fertilizer, and pesticide inputs to maintain a good quality groundcover. Tall fescue will persist under relatively low maintenance, but it is a fast growing species. Without routine fertility inputs, tall fescue will lose density, lose its fine texture, and becomes prone to weed invasion. Fine leaf fescues, such as hard and sheep fescue, require less mowing than tall fescue, are less prone to dormancy during severe droughts, maintain density under low fertility, and have a better combination of tolerance to shade, sun, and acid soils than most tall fescue cultivars. Chewings fescue and creeping red fescues do not perform well in full sun in Maryland. These species may be mixed with other fescues, but only a small percent of the mixture (i.e., 10%) is recommended for sunny sites. Selected cultivars of all fine fescue species, however, perform well in moderately shaded locations.

The appropriate description of low maintenance turf for this publication would include the following cultural factors: no supplemental irrigation; no fertilizer inputs for two or three years at a time; a mowing height above 2.5 inches; mowing frequency of 10 to 14 times annually without clipping removal; and the use of broadleaf herbicides on an as-needed basis. While tall fescue, hard and sheep fescue monostands have been shown to provide acceptable density and quality under low maintenance in Maryland, a mixture of species is recommended to provide some additional genetic diversity to the stand.

Noted below are some mixtures that have performed well under low maintenance in Maryland. Use only cultivars recommended in Agronomy Mimeo 77 "Turfgrass Cultivar Recommendations For Certified Sod and Professional Seed Mixtures In Maryland".

1) Hard fescue (1 or a blend of 2 cultivars) @ 90% by weight + 10% sheep fescue, creeping red fescue, or chewing fescue

2) Bighorn sheep fescue @ 90% by weight + 10% hard fescue, creeping red fescue, or chewing fescue

3) Hard fescue @40% by weight + 40% Bighorn sheep fescue + 20% creeping red fescue

4)High Traffic Area Mix: Tall fescue (1 or a blend of 2 to 3 cultivars) @ 90% by weight + 10% creeping red fescue or hard fescue.

Chewings fescues normally out-perform creeping red fescue in full sun, but creeping red fescue has better recuperative potential due to its rhizomatous growth habit. Both chewing and creeping red fescues generally provide inferior quality under low maintenance in full sun when compared to recommended cultivars of tall fescue, hard fescue and Bighorn sheep fescue. Bighorn appears to have better disease resistance than other sheep fescue cultivars that are currently available.

Establishment: For best results, seed fescues between late August and late September. Do not seed after 15 October. Spring seeding (i.e., March 15 to May 15) is likely to produce an inferior turf; whereas, summer seeding should be avoided altogether. The soil should be graded, tilled, firmed and a starter fertilizer (nitrogen + phosphorus + potassium) raked-in prior to seeding. It is very important to lightly roll the site after the seed has been raked into the soil. Firming the seedbed by rolling enhances germination rate and improves uniformity of coverage. All fescue species will germinate in 7 to 10 days in September if there is sufficient rain or water applied from irrigation. Tall fescue initially is much more vigorous. Conversely, the fine leaf fescues seldom tiller or become dense before spring. The seeding rate for all fescue species is 4 to 6 pounds of seed per 1000ft2 of area, with the higher rate suggested for quicker establishment. The germination of fine leaf fescue seed declines rapidly with age, and germination may be nearly 0% for seed that is two or more years in age. For the fine leaf fescues it is therefore particularly important to use seed that is 18 months or less in age. Because the seed label may not provide the harvest date of seed, it is prudent to use Maryland Certified Seed that has been tested recently for germination.

Tall fescue seeded in September will require several mowings before winter, but the fine leaf fescues may not require mowing until the following May. It is imperative that broadleaf weeds be removed either by hand pulling or by herbicides between May and early June following a fall seeding. Broadleaf weeds will compete effectively with fall seeded stands and reduce turf density, while at the same time their rapid growth will increase mowing frequency. All broadleaf herbicides will cause temporary yellowing of the fine leaf fescues. See Agronomy Mimeo 79 "Broadleaf Weed Control in Established Lawns" for more specific information regarding herbicide selection and use.

Mowing: To retain turf density and to retard annual grass weed invasion, the fescues should be mowed no lower than 2.5 inches in height. For best aesthetic quality, fescues should be mowed two to three times monthly during spring and fall of the first year, and less frequently during the summer. In subsequent years, mowing frequency will decline, assuming weeds do not become excessive.

Never mow fine leaf fescues (i.e., hard, sheep, creeping red or chewing) in summer during conditions of heat or drought stress. For stands dominated by the fine leaf fescues, a minimum cutting height of 2.5 inches is recommended, but a 3.5 inch or higher height of cut is preferred and mowing may be as infrequent as once or twice per month during the spring and fall, and once monthly in summer. Mow to ensure that the fine leaf fescues do not produce mature seedheads. Mowing following mature seedhead formation weakens and thins-out stands of fine leaf fescues. Regardless of cutting height, always wait until it rains before mowing fine leaf fescues in the summertime. Mowing fine leaf fescues when it is hot or when soils are dry will cause extensive injury or death of plants, and therefore a marked reduction in turf density. This injury will occur when soils are dry, despite no visual signs of wilt or drought stress in the fine leaf fescues. Tall fescue is not as severely injured by mowing under these summer conditions, but even tall fescue should not be mowed when stressed by heat and/or drought. Mowing high and infrequently in summer is the key cultural consideration for maintaining good quality fine leaf fescue stands under low maintenance. Furthermore, mowing in a 3.5 to 5.0 height of cut range will retard annual grass weed (i.e., crabgrass, foxtail, goosegrass) encroachment for many years.

Fertility and Soil pH : A starter fertilizer that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) should be applied at the time of seeding or shortly after seedling emergence. A second application of a starter fertilizer may be needed prior to winter if seedlings appear stunted, yellow or purple. Thereafter, fertilizer applications can be skipped for two or more years. In general, 1 to 2 lb of nitrogen per 1000ft2 would be sufficient every two to three years in most soils. In sandy soils, however, an annual application of a complete fertilizer (i.e., N + P + K) may be required.

The fine leaf fescues will develop thatch and acquire a puffy quality over time, making them unsuitable turfs for athletic fields or intermediate golf course roughs. Frequent nitrogen applications will promote thatch development. Hence, it is important to restrict nitrogen applications as long as these turfs display good density. The fine leaf fescues will tolerate and maintain good cover at soil pH's as low as 5.3. Liming soils when pH's are 5.3, however, is recommended annually until a pH of about 6.0 is achieved.

Herbicides : Broadleaf weeds, if present, must be eliminated in the spring following a fall seeding. Thereafter, broadleaf weed control may only be needed once a year or once every other year. Spot applications of broadleaf herbicides can delay the need for a blanket application for many years. Annual grass weeds should not be a problem, unless turf density is poor due to low mowing, or damage from disease or insect pests. Several preemergence herbicides are injurious to fine leaf fescues including DCPA (Dacthal), oxadiazon (Ronstar), and benefin + trifluralin (Team). Dithiopyr (Dimension), pendimethalin (Pre-M, Pendulum, others) and prodiamine (Barricade) are safe to apply to fine leaf fescues mowed above 2.5 inches. See Agronomy Mimeo 85"Herbicides for Crabgrass and Goosegrass Control In Turf" for more information regarding annual grass weed control.

Diseases : Red thread, leaf spot, dollar spot and summer patch are the major diseases of fine leaf fescues. Creeping red fescue is more prone to disease than hard, sheep or chewing fescues. Brown patch is a very common and destructive disease of tall fescue. While brown patch seldom kills tall fescue, it severely reduces stand density. Brown patch is a major reason for mixing of fine leaf fescue with a tall fescue for low maintenance sites. Under low maintenance and high mowing, fungicides generally are not required for disease management in the fescues. It is important to note, however, that the fungicide chlorothalonil (Daconil, Thalonil) is phytotoxic to some cultivars of fine leaf fescues, and therefore its' use must be avoided where these grasses are grown.

Insect Pests : White grubs are potentially the most destructive pest problem for the fine leaf fescues. In most years, the fine leaf fescues and tall fescue will tolerate root feeding by moderate grub populations. Large areas, however, may be devastated in August and September by white grubs in some years and therefore periodic overseeding or the application of an insecticide may become necessary.

SUMMARY OF IMPORTANT POINTS IN ESTABLISHING AND MAINTAINING FESCUES FOR LOW MAINTENANCE SITES.

• Plant seed between late August and late September. Be sure to use seed recently tested for percent germination.
• Use a starter fertilizer and bring seed into firm contact with soil by rolling.
• Control broadleaf weeds in the spring following a fall seeding.
• Spot treat pockets of developing broadleaf weeds in spring or fall in subsequent years.
• Mow the turf above 2.5 inches in height; preferably mow to a height of 3 to 5 inches.
• Mow in spring to ensure that grasses do not produce mature seedheads.
• Never mow in summer when soil is dry or when fescues are showing signs of heat and/or drought stress.
• Avoid nitrogen fertility as long as turfgrass stands exhibit good density. When nutrients are needed, apply a balanced fertilizer in the fall. Do not exceed more than 2.0 lb. of nitrogen per 1000 ft2 in any year.
• Monitor soil pH every 2 to 3 years and apply limestone if pH falls below 5.3.

Mimeo prepared by: Peter H. Dernoeden, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, Department of Agronomy